TREK TO HEMKUND 2007

To the Heaven and Back

It was the evening of fifth of October and that’s when it actually hit me that we were off to mountains. The feeling I had not so long ago when we were to climb Bhadraj was suddenly magnified tenfold. By dinner time everything was a hurried blur in the rush for woolens, bags, shoes, toiletries and other paraphernalia. Some were of the theory that we should’ve spent a sleepful night, since we were required to rise and shine a little before dawn. Eventually everybody’s blankets I think changed the heat of choice they made.

By around twelve and predominantly the whole hostel was asleep. Well I think that I was the only one who didn’t sleep and a little before departure time I was also one of the courageous few to have bathed and got ready.

What I have written until now was purely introductory. I must put it down that this is an account of the trip to Hemkund with personal effect, and any technicalities committed, therefore are highly regretted.

Back to business, we were sorted, the boys and girls of classes ten to twelve, and in a matter of minutes, after a great deal of gesturing and beckoning, I found myself in the back of a small bus. We were endowed with, to say the least, slightly more than stern seating. So while I eventually prepared myself for an uphill struggle in a ninety degree position, I was also cross checking whatever I had missed out anything or not.

The journey began on a sleepy note, and looking back all I can say is that the students were of the impression that the beginning of the trip was a little hurried, sleepy and to be honest, uncomfortable. But little did we know that where we were heading would make us forget our earthly existence itself, leave aside these minor discomforts.

In respect I believe we or atleast I was a soul on a pilgrimage. The morning passed by slowly, we bypassed Rishikesh and then finally we made our first pit stop. Breakfast was filling, satisfying and to say the least gave its full utility. I even managed to snatch a little moment with principal sir over breakfast. The conclusion we arrived at was that when outside we were men of the world, and that we had left school and academic business back in Rajawala itself. Happy at having made constructive use of time at breakfast, I was pleased to see that we now began our slow ascent.

To get to the heart of the matter a little quicker, I have decided to go on to the next day of our journey, since the first day was spent predominantly in traveling, but not before leaving you with a few details. For me, the journey is one of the jewels on the crown of adventure. It was like riding on the back of two gargantnous snakes, both twisting and turning in their serpentine manner, the mountain road and the frowning river. The food was healthy, the air fresh , the first day was characteristic with the long road, its sensuous nerves  and sharp, dangerous bends (not so merciful on the stomach) as well the constant din which was taking place within the bus itself.

After a little stalling, we finished our journey upon reaching a small and busy town called Joshi Math at around nine PM It took us a while to acclimatize, but by around twelve we were already fed, instructed and asleep in our simple but comfortable rooms. At this point, I must admire our organizers’ determination to give the children the very best of everything available, and this went on till the very end of the trip. 

The morning of the seventh brought about the actual beginning of our adventure. We left at five o’clock for our renderous point, a certain Gurudwara in the Pashupati valley, a village called Govind Ghar. There we had breakfast. I must also disclose, all the while, the parantha became something of a staple, during our traveling.

All our tour guides told us before departure was to carry enough woolens, travel light, and keep to the left of the thirteen kilometer long mountain path. As the proof of the pie is the eating of it, one can never fully prepare oneself with theory. This was nature’s lesson that once we would finish our trek we would come out wiser and tougher, more educated, in fact, about our very own land. I made one very crucial mistake though, I had a heavy breakfast, and this caused me a lot of stress in the beginning of the trek. Little to my knowledge was I to discover that this was a boon and not a bane.

The climb which was thirteen kilometer long trek around five hours and to say the least it was strenuous. Try as I might to describe the sheer beauty, strength and awe inspiring light of nature, I am but a small child, who is yet incompetent in front of mother nature.

The path was interspersed here and there with clear water streams not only good enough to drink but good enough to store for many days, in its purest form its natural state. I felt I was in heaven and the fact that it was off season made the view more appreciative on the whole, since we were the only ones trekking uphill.

On many an occasion I’d stop to listen to the sound of gusting water struggling and forcing itself past the boulders and rocks. I don’t think I will ever be able to forget the first trek the atmosphere, the view, and the sense of purpose.

As I trudged on I came to understand that we were going deeper into the valley, penetrating right uphill the children were using the pit stop techniques, as in they walked for some time. Up hill Up till a certain time around 1:00 clock, keeping in mind we left at around ten in the morning, even I was making stops. Then either something came over me or it was just in the heat of the moment that I decided to move non stop. It was tiring, I admit but also retarding, I got to my destination faster. Plus I was a little wiser, on the whole more confident about my climbing skills.

One thing I forgot to mention that the empty shacks and stalls, which were once full and probably flowing with people, were lying desolate and adorned the mountain path with their own aesthetic value.       

By around two in the afternoon the sun had begun its descent in the sky and up there you felt it more, because deep in the valley, when you are walled in by mountains you get little time to bask in the full sunlight. The sky was deep blue and clear; it seemed to be the last veil earthlings and heavens above.

Since I slowly began my new walking form, slowly but steadily, I reached my destination after crossing Principal Sir, ma’am, their daughter, a bunch of juniors along with Rawat and Shrivastava Sir. I’m not being vain, all I am trying to prove is that when climbing uphill, one should keep the rhythm. After the grueling one and half kilometers   I was nearly sweating upon reaching. But soon I realized that I was being chilled to the bone, after all, my body had cooled and I was sitting at ten thousand feet.

The children, though, were restless, upon reaching, the festivities began, and all and sundry here passing their time one way or the other. This was owing to the fact the trip to the valley of flowers had been cancelled since everyone was more tired than expected. What added to the mystery and excitement of the kids is that we were the only people in the small town of Ghagaria.

We were told that electricity would be around from six to nine, that too because of the generator. By this time I was sure that civilization was left way behind, but I thank my stars that I had comfortable rooms and decent food to eat.

By evening it had become so cold that one couldn’t stand or sit in one place for too long., the cold slowly crept in. Yet there were people who were talking care of us, locals, clad in nearly one sweater! I wondered whether any of them would be able to stand the summer of the plains.

Time passed by as we enjoyed ourselves and once again I found myself in my blanket, though a little less warm than my previous night, wishing  my friends goodnight. All I remember of that night now is that it was bitterly cold.

Next morning we were up bright and early because we were told that we’d have to climb Hemkund Sahib, the Gurudwara, we had come to visit all the way, and be back to base by around one in the afternoon, if we were to visit the valley of flowers, since daylight was in important factor in planning these treks. It was a six kilometer trek and the climb was obviously the toughest we were going to face yet, at a forty five degree slant, we knew we faced a formidable task ahead. Starting at nine thousand feet, in a mere six kilometers we were to reach a height of fourteen thousand five hundred feet. Personally, after the first two kilometers, I began to stop more and more frequently. Then I began to feel sleepy, at first I didn’t realize what was happening. After a while, and supported by particularly long stop. I came to the conclusion that the oxygen level was much below my preference. Then I began my solitary and slow ascent yet again. One thing is for sure, I might not have been as left and sure footed as the best climbers of the day, but what I did do is take the view in literally, everything I saw, touched, tasted, felt and smelt would remain with me forever. Meanwhile our best and swiftest had already reached the gates of God.

Well, eventually, and not surprisingly, our whole troupe reached home base by around 4:00 pm. After all, we weren’t professionals, most of us reasoned. And to my regret, we didn’t see the valley of flowers, but few of us promised ourselves that we would be back one day.

The rest of the evening was spent in festivities, eating, story-telling, merry -making and all-round revelry. The highlight of the evening was that, just this once, for the students of the Indian public school, the generator was left on for a couple of extra hours! Trust me, extracting favours from anybody at nine thousand feet is no mean feat! (According to Vikram, the tour guide, people get a bit cranky and crabby at high altitude, that’s why!).

The next morning, it was another thirteen km downhill back to Govind Ghat, with only the beautiful, gushing water of the Pushpawati River flowing along with us. Since, I was now beginning to feel more like a human road-roller than anything else, I made fewer stops, and more falls. Since we were all in a hurry to get to our destination, not many of us stopped a moment to say goodbye to the snow-clad peaks we had been face to face with for the past two days. I took this privilege, and made my promise, that I’ll be back.

We reached around noon and the last leg of the descent was a bridge. I and my companions, Monnesh Hamal (doesn’t talk much) and Gaurav Mahla (not a silent moment went by with him!) decided to cool our heels in the river below, by hook or by crook. What I experienced there was true bliss! It was one with the river and that in itself was a fulfilling and purifying experience.

Since we were one of the early birds, ironically we didn’t get a worm (lunch) and were told to sit in the first bus and rush to Badrinath. Apparently the gates to the city closed at around four.

Badrinath, I felt, is what I had actually come to visit. We reached, change our clothes and hurried to the holy temple. It was a shock to the senses as this place was brimming with life. The bath in the hot sulphur springs not only left me feeling clean but pure. I have no shame in confiding in you that, personally, I have never felt cleaner after a bath in my short life! To say the least, the temple left one and all speechless. I guess it has this effect on people. It is sight for sour eyes, with the Himalayas draping this holy abode of the all four sides.

From here on, I would like to keep it short and sweet. We left Badrinath, made our way back down the precarious mountain road to Joshi Math where we spent the most entertaining and noisy evening.                                                                    

It was like a lush of blood to the head!

The next day was spent travelling back to the Doon valley and more importantly Rajawala. The food was good all along, the view was sublime and the feeling was good-humoured along with a bit of fatigue. While on the way back, after breakfast, which was bestowed with the privilege of riding among the esteemed personalities of Siddharth Bansal and Gurpal of form XI along with our jovial tour guides for me, there couldn’t have been a better ending to the trip, than sitting in the front seat of a four wheel-drive, listening to music, discussing the trip and making random stops to take in the views. Towards the end, there was a little bus trouble which stalled everybody for a while. But by around 11:00 pm. both the buses had reached. Meanwhile we were making our way back to Dehradun, and half- an hour before reaching in the forest of Doiwala we sighted a leopard and its cub crossing the road , the icing on the cake! I just couldn’t believe my luck. I wondered as to what were the odds of that happening on any other night. This reinforced my conclusion of the trip, that it had major role which was played by fate and God, who, for some reason I felt was smiling down upon the whole IPS troupe.      

On arriving at Dehradun, our first destination was principal sir’s residence. We didn’t expect him to greet us at his late hour, but there he was to open the gates smiling and asking about the rest. We handed sir his bags, told him everyone had reached and that we had spotted a leopard and its cub. Sir then shared a similar memory from his endless trove, when he had last seen a leopard, and then bade us a swift good night.

The journey to school was short and sweet from there on and in another hour I found myself looking upon a familiar sight, the ceiling of my bedroom. I was back again, and I was content and happy with my enriched and little more experienced self.

What I felt then, I will try to describe. In that one moment before falling asleep the whole trip flashed before me, and it was then that I came to understand that you may go to the ends of the earth in search of anything. But the final ending will be where you belong. Lying on my bed, I knew the end had come, but I also knew then, that I would cherish the memories of this excursion forever.

On behalf of my friends of classes ten, eleven, and twelve, I would like to extend my sincerest, thanks to Dr. S.C. Biala and our accompanying teachers, who accompanied us.  To say the least it instilled in one and all a feeling of purpose, of competence.

In the end I would like to say thank you, and that I hope I’ve done justice to the trip in my writings. Until our next meeting, good luck and good bye.  

Account by: Ram Chandra Puri